玩味兼容并蓄风格的每一个层面,本主题以个性化和年轻化的诠释手段展现出前所未有的混搭风格。具体将通过“多元游曳”和“手工艺”两个方向来深入探究“融合”之美。
SHUFFLE
Dedicated to the art of mixing pieces of different nature to create a unique style, this chapter showcases the continuous hybridized expression of genders, cultures and ethnicities. From streetwear, sweatshirts and baseball caps to tailored jackets and vague 1970s inspiration, this chapter shares the tremendously contemporary of the unexpected.
Image Credit: Chiara Marina Grioni/Fashionista
CONTENTS
- Knitwear 4.0
- Patterns & Stripes
- Jacquard Knitwear
- Lightweight Tricot
- Jersey Polo
- Wool Shirting
- Revised Icons
- Mixing Traditions with Innovations
- Wool Denim Combinations
Knitwear 4.0
Knitwear reveals itself again as capable of adapting to the new shifts imposed by the pandemic. From sportswear to new concepts of domestic life, we are experiencing a surge of knitwear linked, not only to the idea of comfort, but also to new technologies and yarn treatments. Double-faced knits, body mapping techniques, warp knits and sophisticated seamless jacquard knits provide valid alternatives to tailoring.
Patterns & Stripes
Wool lightweight jerseys blended with recycled materials allow versatility of use and an infinite choice of colours and material combinations, influenced and influencing the concept of sustainability.
Image Credit: Left - © pierrefrey.com | Right - Godisable Jacob @ pexels.com
Jacquard Knitwear
The bold aesthetic of a soft jacquard wool knit, bright and boxy, chunky and sophisticated. Here, interpreted in classic Fair Isle designs and traditional patterns with the latest iteration of knitting techniques.
Lightweight Tricot
The three-dimensionality of hand-made knitting finds new expression in 100% Merino wool yarn crêpes, in blends with the latest fibres and in combination with finest yarns.
Image Credit: Left - The Keiji@fashion-press.net | Right - Ader @adererror.com
The Jersey Polo
Reflects the desire of leisurely feelings and vintage influences underlined by details such as retro stripes and diamonds checks. Always acknowledging a nod to performance with attributes such as breathability, antibacterial treatments and odour control.
Wool Shirting
Merino wool is naturally odour resistant and can absorb large quantities of water vapor helping to keep the skin drier and prevent the build-up of sweat, bacteria and unpleasant smells which are only released upon washing. All these characteristics make wool perfect for shirts, dresses and "Shackets" - a hybrid garment exactly halfway between a jacket and a shirt, designed and interpreted in various versions, from solid colours to eccentric checks.
Source: pexels.com
Revised Icons
Focus on classic designs and heritage driving-checks and patterns, wool is the perfect ally in a world where classics are reinvented and updated with creative ways and techniques. Jacquards, Prince of Wales and Houndstooth are updated with the lines blurred between luxury and casual. Innovation is mixed with iconical tradition to create long-term appeal.
Image Credit: @unsplash.com Left - Joshua Rondeau Right - Nicolas Mejia
Mixing Traditions with Innovations
Style is not a matter of taste, but a miscellaneous blend of the latest technologies with timeless classics.
Wool denim combinations
Previous attempts to create wool/cotton blends in denim have used an intimate blend of wool with cotton - two fibres which are not easy to combine in one yarn. Yet production developments including the use of machine washable wool yarns have led to a more cost-effective way to produce Wool Denim without having to intimately blend wool with cotton.
CRAFT
Focused on handmade oriented treatments, reworked, over-dyed and hand-made garments, this theme looks at craft to create a unique style.
Amplified by the lockdown, a new spontaneity in creativity and amateur craft has inspired an artistic wave that has spread globally. An avenue to escape reality in this time of crisis, the surge of remade and reinvented techniques mixes traditions and technologies.
Image Credit: bodenewyork
CONTENTS
- Contemporary Artisans
- Non-Prints on Wool
- Printed Icons
- Tactile 3D
- Wool Gradients
- Spray On Wool
- Warp Print
- Natural Dyeing
- Hand Loom
Contemporary Artisans
Rediscovered ancient techniques are renewing and evolving the technical skills of young creatives. Skills which are inspired by the pioneers of fashion, from the basic raw materials to the finished garment, creatives are re-interpreting these concepts with the latest technological advancements in knitting and dyeing. From the smallest laboratory to the industries of skilled craftsmanship, each garment is carefully studied in expert detail to give a deeper understanding to the raw material and its potential.
Image Credit: Vittorio Branchizio and Shima Seiki for The Woolmark Company
Non-Prints on Wool
Wool is the perfect surface for textures and tactile, animal inspired and abstracts prints in monochromatic palettes. A new direction responds to the desire of simplicity and to break from the seasonal fashion dictate in favour for a timeless and versatile beauty.
Image Credit: @ unsplash.com | Left - Steve Johnson | Right - Joshua Freake
Printed Icons
The timeless beauty of classic drapery patterns finds new life through the digital printing technique, giving a new consistency to designs and consequently more flexible and dynamic uses.
TACTILE 3D
Image Credit: Davi Costa @ unsplash.com
Using three-dimensionality to create new tactile effects on wool adds additional visual interest with both surface design and bonding techniques. Bold patterns and clashing colours create a never-too-strong impact.
Wool gradients
Colour gradient effects, solarised soft prints and tonally layered ombré are becoming a passepartout and represent the evolution of tie dye. Suggested for contemporary look and occasion wear as well as casual jersey. This upcoming trend, perfect for interpretation with wool, takes inspiration from the increased time spent on technological devices and web graphic design.
Spray on wool
This technique allows more handcrafted and unique results. It can be done manually or obtained through digital printing for more homogenous and reproducible results.
Warp Print
A focus on the story behind production techniques giving life to a series of luxury, ikat inspired, warp printed fabrics offering a more sophisticated version of digital prints on wool, full of craft details and authenticity for a bohemian and nomadic look.
Video Credit: menphis.eu
Image Credits: Left - Hana Mitsui @ designweek.co.uk | Right - Clem Onojeghuo @ unsplash.com
Natural Dyeing
Natural dyeing is an ancient and specialised textile technique. Dyes derived from natural sources, like plants, minerals and food waste are used to help fix coloured pigments to a fibre. Suppliers globally are now able to achieve natural dyeing on a large scale and overcome previous limitations including colour consistency and dye fastness. When sustainably produced, natural dyes are an effective alternative to synthetic dyes for use on wool yarn and piece and garment dyeing.
Hand Loom
Ancient techniques are always fascinating and give life to real pieces that will inspire over time, wearable works of art. Each weave is carefully studied in expert detail, to give a deeper value to the raw material adding a statement of sophisticated uniqueness thanks to artisanal and details.
This trend guide is created for companies working ahead, illustrating concepts for dyers, weavers, designers, and strategists alike. Conceived by The Woolmark Company as a limited edition. The contents of this tool are for educational, review and research purposes only. This digital publication should only be used as a general aid and is not a substitute for specific advice. To the extent permitted by law, we exclude all liability for loss or damage arising from use of the information in this digital publication.
Copyright © 2020 Woolmark International Pty Ltd (WIPL). WIPL is part of the Woolmark Company group of companies. Some of this work’s content is licensed to The Woolmark Company by third parties. Except to the extent permitted under Copyright law no part of this publication may be reproduced by any process, electronic or otherwise, without the specific written permission of the copyright owner. Neither may information be stored electronically in any form whatsoever without such permission.